Pipe Repair: Leaks, Freezes, and When to Replace

Common causes of pipe failure

• Corrosion in older copper, aggravated by water chemistry
• Freeze splits in unheated wall or attic runs
• Physical damage from renovation work or a fastener driven into a wall
• Failed fittings, especially where dissimilar metals were joined
• Cast iron drainage that has scaled and cracked with age

Copper vs PEX

Copper is durable and heat-tolerant but sensitive to water chemistry and slower to install. PEX is fast to install, tolerates minor freezes better than rigid pipe, and is common in newer homes and renovations. Neither is universally better, and repairs match existing materials unless a broader replacement is planned.

How to safely thaw a frozen pipe

• Shut off the water first in case the pipe has split
• Open the affected faucet so melting water can escape
• Apply gentle warmth with a hair dryer or heat gun on low, working from the faucet back
• Never use an open flame, and never use a torch on plastic
• If you cannot access the frozen section, call a plumber before it thaws on its own

Patch vs section replacement

• A single pinhole in an otherwise sound copper run is usually a patch or a short section swap
• Repeated pinholes in the same run usually mean the run is at end of life and worth replacing
• PEX after a freeze usually needs the split section cut out and re-fitted
• Larger scope work is priced on site after locating and confirming the extent of the failure